darkemeralds: A round magical sigil of mysterious meaning, in bright colors with black outlines. A pen nib is suggested by the intersection of the cryptic forms. (Default)
darkemeralds ([personal profile] darkemeralds) wrote2007-06-24 10:48 pm

Tieyu and the Magic Powder

My new friend Tieyu is here on an exchange, living in student housing, away from her husband and daughter in China. When she mentioned that she's a good cook, I asked her if she'd like to come to my house and teach me a Chinese dish. I thought it might help her feel at home, and I knew I'd learn something new and interesting.



We started our culinary adventure with a trip to Fubonn. After about an hour wandering the aisles of this Asian food wonderland, me acting like a complete tourist (they have palm sugar! What's palm sugar for? Look at the size of those papayas! Rice gluten! What's that for? Do I need a wok? They have woks...), and Tieyu being very nice about it, we came home with our bounty and started preparing dinner: jiaozi (pork dumplings), cucumber salad, and mung bean porridge.

First we made our own dumpling wrappers. They start with a stiff flour-and-water dough that you pull out into a long rope and break off in little chunks. These you flatten with your palm into a sort of flying-saucer shape.



Using a short rolling stick, you thin the edges into a circle, leaving the middle slightly thicker. A dab of filling goes in the center, then you seal it in by folding and crimping the dough. Tieyu made it look so easy! Mine were all misshapen blobs, one for every dozen or so she made.



Here is Tieyu:


Our filling was ground pork with scrambled eggs, and masses of Chinese chives chopped very finely. This was seasoned with quite a lot of ginger and salt, soy sauce, sesame oil, and...magic powder.

See, Tieyu brought a little packet of brown powder with her from China, and so critical was it to the outcome of our cooking that when she initially forgot it in her apartment, she asked me to circle back for it: hua1 jiao1 mian4, also known as Szechuan pepper or Chinese prickly ash. It isn't really a pepper--not in the chile family at all--but it adds a pungency of the "numbing" variety that's very characteristic of northern Chinese cuisine. It's also got medicinal properties--among other things, it's good for digestion. How handy!

Anyway, a couple of tablespoons of this precious stuff went into the filling.

While we simmered one potful after another of our gorgeous jiaozi, Tieyu had me set a saucepan of mung beans on to boil. Then we julienned some cucumber and carrot and chopped up some transparent noodles, and dressed all this with rice vinegar, sugar and garlic.

The jiaozi were heavenly, with their slippery boiled wrappers and the burst of a dozen rich, steaming, combined flavors when you bit in. We just stood there in the kitchen eating them. A bit later my sister joined us. When we'd all eaten as many dumplings as we could, and scarfed up most of the salad, we had dessert. The mung beans had cooked and cooled, and Tieyu served them to us in little dishes, in their broth, with sugar. They were mild and green-tasting, very refreshing. Tieyu says that mung beans served this way have a cooling effect on the body.

Tieyu gave me the packet of magic powder to keep. She took a dozen dumplings home with her and there were still dozens left. I had cold mung beans for breakfast today, and re-steamed dumplings for lunch and dinner.



The real tasty leftover, however, was this dawning realization: all my life, food has been something to fear, control, limit, distrust, and obsess over. At best, in my culture, it's a hedonistic pleasure, akin to sin. It's always something you need to heal from, work off, undo, burn up. In China, apparently, food is actually viewed as medicine, and a well-prepared meal makes you better, and not just fuller or fatter.

So, thank you, Tieyu and the magic powder. I'm on the road to a whole new learning experience.

Re: Late to the Party

[identity profile] emeraldsedai.livejournal.com 2007-06-28 08:11 pm (UTC)(link)
As someone who generally cooks and eats alone, I find it very difficult to conceive of taking Petrini's approach in my everyday life--though I share 100% his beliefs about food, agriculture, and above all conviviality. What a powerful, wonderful word! I think it is important to make food a higher priority: I know people for whom real food barely registers in their grocery budget!

That said, there's a scene in "Big Night" that demonstrates how "slow food" needn't be elaborate, or painstaking, or expensive. You probably know the one--the indelible "scrambled egg" scene, in which one of the characters wakes up in the kitchen after the titular big night, lights the flame under a small skillet, pours in a few drops of olive oil, breaks an egg, scrambles it quickly, tips it onto a plate, and eats it with a hunk of Italian style bread--all in a single take, from a single angle, in total silence.

You could show that scene to junior high kids and say, "Let's taste the difference between free-range eggs and regular ones. Let's see if we can tell the difference between olive oil and melted Crisco. Let's see if sea salt is any different from Morton's iodized. And can you tell the difference between Wonder "bread" and this ciabatta?

What an educational starting point that would be!

Re: Late to the Party

[identity profile] str8ontilmornin.livejournal.com 2007-06-30 08:22 pm (UTC)(link)
Aside from the 'dinner' scene, that is my favorite! The focus on the one goal (the meal) and the smooth deliberate movements, it's really a ballet in my head when I watch that scene. It's like doing what we humans do on the most basic level and yet is full of meaning.

Seeing/tasting the differences would be helpful in building a new appreciation for real food. So would seeing and actually occupying the space where food is grown or raised. Most would make a turn towards sustainability and more humane treatment, etc.

Re: Late to the Party

[identity profile] emeraldsedai.livejournal.com 2007-07-01 01:27 am (UTC)(link)
Excellent point.

I'm trying to remember if I've ever been on a farm. I've been in orchards and vineyards, and people's vegetable gardens, and once as a little kid I went to Alpenrose Dairy. I've walked alongside acres of ripe barley in England and past flocks of domestic geese in France, and I have a vivid childhood memory of freshly machete'd raw sugar cane in a field in Hawaii. It doesn't add up to a full appreciation of the world of agriculture, but each experience was memorable and life-enhancing.

This is a very though-provoking topic! Have you ever seen Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hugh_Fearnley-Whittingstall)? Not a name that instantly conjures up great cuisine, being so veddy veddy British and all, but he is a great exponent of sustainable, local, traditional and excellent eating, and his "River Cottage" cooking shows on British television are both entertaining and inspiring. I suspect you would enjoy them.

Re: Late to the Party

[identity profile] str8ontilmornin.livejournal.com 2007-07-05 03:22 pm (UTC)(link)
What a great group of experiences! I knew of farming, ranching and hunting wild game at an early age; even helped a friend butcher an elk at one point, but to see anything else besides the predominant meat-eating culture that is/was Wyoming at the time..... that would have improved my own view of where food comes from.

Thanks for the info. Definitely someone I should know more about. Wonder if I can Netflix some eps.... will check on that.

Re: Late to the Party

[identity profile] emeraldsedai.livejournal.com 2007-07-05 04:44 pm (UTC)(link)
Netflix doesn't have Hugh, but ::looks around:: I've acquired the first series. When you guys come over for home-made dumplings (which will be soon, I promise!) I'll burn you a couple of CDs.

Re: Late to the Party

[identity profile] str8ontilmornin.livejournal.com 2007-07-06 03:04 pm (UTC)(link)
That would be great! And of course, we can't wait to come to your abode/museum what with a certain textile to peruse, a perfect bathroom and soothing landscaping. We'll be there in a heartbeat.